Day 50 - Saturday, December 21, 1996
Lima, Peru to Nasca, Peru

Miles - 286

(by Jason)

Jim and I hit the road to Nasca, leaving the other three behind to cross the Amazon, without us. Jim has only 4 weeks left to ride all the way to Ushuaia and back up to Buenos Aires. So the moonriders decided that Jim and I attempt to complete the journey ahead of the other 3, who had more time and a greater desire to cross the Amazon.

Unlike the center, the outskirts of Lima proved to be very beautiful, boasting large, busy beaches. A stop for gasoline lead to a proposition for me to star in a shampoo commercial! (I think it was the scruffy whiskers and long dirty hair. It was tempting, but Jim was anxious to get back on the road. We gratiously denied and rode away.)

If you like desert, you«d love the ride to Nasca Peru! Non-stop sand. It was spectacular, don«t get me wrong, I spent the whole time starring out into the distance wishing I had a KX 500 with a paddle tire. What fun we could«ve had! But I was lucky enough to get some off-roading in, a skinny, steep desert trail leading to a view point overlooking the famous "Nasca Lines". Well, we only made it 3/4 of the way up when tire, gravity, and rider«s ability failed, the fully loaded KLR 650 almost went.

Our arrival to Nasca was met by Dave (Scottish), and Leanne (Australian), two other motorcyclists that have been on the road a little longer than us.....like 2 years 4 months longer than us! Their travels have taken them from South East Asia, through the middle east, Turkey, Iran, Europe, then by ship to Alaska and down. True travelers, both aboard a 1986 BMW GS800. An entertaining couple, with hours of great stories. We ate dinner and decided to try the 500km short cut through Puquio to Cusco. Apparently it was possible to do it in one long day, instead of going around to Arequipa and up (easier but longer). We must admit we were warned of the road conditions. We knew we could expect, mud, rain and dirt roads, but we had no idea what was in store for us.................

Day 51 - Sunday, December 22, 1996
Nasca, Peru to (somewhere near) Abancay, Peru

Miles - 251

(by Jason)

We were up at the crack of dawn, fuelled up and were away........

• Dave is my kind of ridding buddy, no intrest in sight seeing, just ride and collect stickers
• Peruvian meals include fried fish, rice and salad for 3-4 sols ($1.50)
• Most Peruvian bathrooms consist of no hot water, toilet seat or toilet paper
• Without warning the tarmac ended and the hardship began
• Jim hits his least favorite riding condition and slams into the side of a volcanic wall.
• The most spectacular 300kms I«ve ever seen
• Surrounded with 50 to 70 people every time we stop
• Virtually an untravelled road by tourists
• Mud, rain, hail, rocks, sun, total darkness and cold
• In all it took us 12 hours to go 400kms
• In total darkness we found a dirty, stinky, run down hotel room in the middle of know where, salvation from the rain
• Felt sorry for Leanne, being on the back for that many hours of dirt road.